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Post by yammies on Nov 9, 2012 5:47:41 GMT 12
Yeah for sure... Feb would sound about right for cert etc too.. all going well. lots of little minor things to do now. got her fired up last night on ether but the fuel pump is dead, so will have to replace that before she'll run under her own steam
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Post by yammies on Nov 16, 2012 5:39:05 GMT 12
it is alive! had a crap earth inside the tank for the fuel pump. lucky it showed up as open circuit or that could have been interesting........... it runs and even idles. engine bay is about 95% finished now.
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Post by yammies on Dec 8, 2012 10:17:42 GMT 12
 Sexy Bum  Ok so it runs, idles, does all that cool stuff. done the final setup stuff on the diff now, set pinion angle etc. with everything set up I have increased wheelbase by only 5mm.. not too bad I thought. Rear track is now 1325mm with 8" rims Front is 1375mm with 6" rims Have set front toe to 2mm in, any tips or tricks for getting these to handle well? I'd imagine I'm running a similar weight to a 2.3 slant, so HS/HSR setup would probably work well Finally sourced the clips for my mouldings through Bresco.com... hopefully they will arrive before Xmas! Basis have the windscreen rubbers so will have to get them in the new year once the credit card recovers..... |
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Post by cul8r on Dec 8, 2012 19:20:20 GMT 12
Flip the top ball joints round 180deg, that will give you more Camber..
I usually have the toe ever so slightly in 1.5mm total, to compensate for the camber on the inside. Toe out would be nicer though
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Post by yammies on Dec 8, 2012 20:57:53 GMT 12
seems to be running quite a bit of camber.. could be due to the track gain. Havent got a camber/caster gauge at work atm, so it's guess work on that front. went with the factory recommended 2mm toe in, +/-0.5mm just to see how it goes.
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Post by gordo on Dec 8, 2012 20:58:01 GMT 12
That's only 50", and most are already att he negative side - although the mounts can be slotted that introduces an increase in the inward tilt to the dampers and that's already a problem with some wheels/tyres - however, using the short version of the dampers will limit the last bit of the droop but, if you don't need to limit them, it'll give a bit more impact absorbtion when landing after yumps...
As you say, best option would probbly be to set it up like an HS/HSR - what sort of budget do you have for it, what sort of use will it be used for and how high/low are you planning to run it?
The front end should be relatively easy to sort out with several firms offering dampers (my favourite for the 1256 so far is the KYB rally damper) and springs (350-400lbs/inch seems to be recommended for road use. The rear may be a bit more of an issue, depending on how the spring seat and damper are mounted - if it's about the same as the stock setup, then the damper and spring HS/HSR should also be useable as the Mk2 Jaguar HA4 and Atlas axles they used are similar in weight to what you're using.
You could play around with them, trying to source them from different vehicles, or I know TJ Motorsport in the UK carry some Chevette stuff, including springs and SPAX and Bilstein dampers.
Oh, have you changed the rears to vertical mounts or are they still inclined?
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Post by yammies on Dec 8, 2012 21:12:51 GMT 12
Hi Gordo, I mean to use her on the road predominantly, currently it is sitting at about te height I like, with the factory springs in all round. front will probably need to be stiffened up/spring rate increased slightly and unsure of the rear yet until I drive her. there's a good chance that soft is fine, although I have had to remove the rear sway bar to make room for the top link mounts, so stiffer will probably be the way to go there too.
I have some LJ torana shocks to go in the rear to try and control some of the torque that the new motor is going to put through it. hopefully they aren't too stiff.
I'm still running the inclined shocks on the rear, altough I did beef up the top mounts as they had already been punched through. there's always the option to change later if need be.
I have some shocks from an LJ torana that I
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Post by yammies on Dec 18, 2012 21:54:52 GMT 12
Holy nutsballs.... finished welding the diff mounts today. threw a coat of paint at the diff too. bled the brakes quickly and took her for a skid... literally... traction is difficult in the wet in first and second  Had open headers and no windows... must have looked a sight and sounded worse... did good skids though... no brake needed, just a good dose of right foot... nearly slipped off the crate i was using for a seat a few times.... |
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Post by cul8r on Dec 19, 2012 20:26:41 GMT 12
Haha brilliant must show us some pics / video!
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Post by yammies on Mar 12, 2013 19:28:04 GMT 12
 Small signs of progress. Mirrors are both on - the lh one is remote controlled. Bumper is on. Changed front springs to 280zx rears - They are almost identical bar the wire diameter which raised it up and brings my lower arms level. Put her on the scales too - she came out at 550kg front and 405kg rear. Gives me roughly a 58/42% weight split. This should get closer to 50/50 with glass, I terior and exhaust fitted |
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Post by yammies on Jan 23, 2014 21:15:00 GMT 12
So I haven't updated this in a while....
Commodore Diff has been kicked to the kerb.... was going to be too difficult to get a cert so swapped with a gemini borg warner diff from a sedan... Had two long commodore (VN) axles machined down and resplined to give me 5 stud rears to match my fronts. also bolted on the VN disc brakes - there is no modification required to fit these... Could do a how to if you want, but I think it has actually been covered on OZgemini or one of the other gemini sites.
I'm also running a hydraulic booster on my brakes as I couldn't fit a standard vacuum booster in the engine bay - these run off a power steering pump and are pretty trick - I haven't tested it yet but will let you know how it goes... will get some pics when the car is back home
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