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Post by lockie1994 on Nov 26, 2012 20:18:21 GMT 12
hmmmm is that the same starter as the old morris and minis had because mine is not like that the lil sprocket is ment to be thrown onto the ring gear by the solenoid. another issue i have is oil leaking its way out of the dashpot,damping cylender on the stromberg carby any1 had this problem before its a bit of a pain also as it leaks onto exhaust and stinks car out
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Post by gordo on Nov 26, 2012 21:25:13 GMT 12
That was the most common type on the Chevette, but there were a few very late model Chevettes with a pre-engaged starter like in more modern vehicles like Falcons, Holdens, etc. They have the solinoid assembly piggybacked on the main starter body. If the motor can be heard turning but the engine doesn't crank, that's usually due to a slipping sprag (one way) clutch. it's in the thick disc attached tot he pinion. generally they aren't a service item and have to be replaced - although you may have some success rinsing them out with some solvent and giving them a good soak in some light lubricant - NOTE, never tried this and no idea about success.
There was a rather corroded starter of this type on one of the engines I sold to "Wartly" (Darren or something is his correct name) if you want to see if he will sell it to you - whilst I would be surprised if the whole thing was still good, the sprag should be fine - if you can't find an equivalant locally and/or don't want to go back to the older solinoid and inertial starter type. You could try giving him a PM and, if unsuccessful, I may have his 'phone number somewhere.
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Post by lockie1994 on Nov 26, 2012 21:37:40 GMT 12
Cheers for that, do you have any idea of carby issue?
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Post by gordo on Nov 26, 2012 22:02:22 GMT 12
Ooops, that was Allan, not Darren, for Wartly, and I don't seem to have his phone number... As for the dashpot, definitely sounds like you're overfilling it! I'd suggest taking the top off the carb and cleaning the excess oil from the diaphram, etc, and reassemble the cleaned carb. then remove the air lilter assembly and unscrew the damper rod in the carb'. you can reach into the carb and lift the piston and you'll see the top of the damper tube in the top of the carb - fill it (I've from used 3in1 oil to engine oil and doesn't seem to make much difference) to around 10mm short of the top of it, without letting it overflow - shouldn't matter, though, if it's only a little. Then let it drop down, screw in the piston rod assembly and refit air filter. You don't fill it right up because the piston and shaft of the damper rod also displace the oil in the damper tube and, if it's overfilled, it can be forced out the breather hole in the top.
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Post by lockie1994 on Nov 27, 2012 19:33:58 GMT 12
will check it out, thanks, i have sorted starter motor (some1 bogand up wires) now its leakinng oil from what looks to be the rear main seal gbox is coming out for a new thrust bearing this weekend so will make shure of it then, a tad annoyd about the whole situation because in 1256 engine out crank out new seal in crank in ect big job but engine recons put seal in so he can deal with part of it i hope
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Post by gordo on Nov 27, 2012 20:17:38 GMT 12
Strange about the starter, they're designed so the pinion is engaged with the flywheel before it allows the solinoid to supply power to crank the engine.
It's most likely a leak from the sump gasket(s), as the rear can be quite tricky to get properly in place in the corners where the two parts join - I normally did the main peice first and then the strip that goes over the bearing cap, with a bit or RTV sealant at the join and a light bear around the rest of the gasket sealing face. The other problem is that some people will overtighten the bolts and the gasket will be squeezed out. You may need to tap down the sump face a little, if it's been distorted around the bolt holes. I would just give them a light tweak, barely finger tight, as I went round them, followed by another light finger tight tweak. Oh, you did use some sort of sealant on the flywheel bolts, didn't you - the holes are drilled right through the flange and it's possible for oil to weep past the bolts.
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Post by lockie1994 on Nov 27, 2012 20:58:15 GMT 12
its coming out from between engine and bell housing and i put a good amount of locktite on flywheel bolts and torqued em up, its actualy a drip so i will find out when gbox is out il put up a pic of starter wiring if i remember to get 1
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Post by lockie1994 on Dec 7, 2012 23:18:53 GMT 12
my new rims arrived today 15x8 0 offset all around 195/50/15 tyres on front and 205/55/15 on rear will need to go 195/55/15 on rear and it rubs like crazy with 3 people in the car will put some pics up
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Post by yammies on Dec 8, 2012 10:11:28 GMT 12
is it rubbing on the lip of the guard or the inner guard? How is the front at full lock? I'm running 15x6 on the front and 15x8 on the rear. My offsets will be no good to you though as i dont have a standard diff and I'm running custom hubs on the front
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Post by lockie1994 on Dec 9, 2012 9:42:05 GMT 12
it rubs real bad in the rear even with 2 people in it haha, i will roll the inner guard lip in to allow more room so rubbing wont chew out the tyre, its close to the back of the front guard up front but hasent rubbed yet
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Post by lockie1994 on Dec 9, 2012 9:57:32 GMT 12
new wheels on excuse the excesive height needs rear guards inner lip rolled before can lower it Attachments:
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Post by ryansmith on Dec 11, 2012 17:32:36 GMT 12
xxr's ? I quite like that style of rim
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Post by lockie1994 on Dec 11, 2012 21:56:30 GMT 12
Yip thats the 1ns
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Post by crazytim on Dec 11, 2012 22:42:23 GMT 12
Hammer and dolly. Tried a proper guard roller on my red wagon but the radius on a t car guard wasnt right for the tool. Helps to heat up the paint to avoid cracks with a heat gun and take it nice n slow.
I'm waiting on the time to make up an adjustable panhard rod before introducing my red wagon to the ground. There's always something...
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Post by lockie1994 on Dec 15, 2012 17:17:31 GMT 12
spent pretty much my whole day getting this rpm guage in and cluster back in car, was hooking lights up and acidentaly blew the power for light in rpm guage so just ran a small bulb off the std cluster light wire and its away. Attachments:
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