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Post by bulldog on Nov 9, 2009 2:01:23 GMT 12
So after much work and time I've decided i need something bigger to drive around.
I believe the carb is wrecked on the sedan as it was missing really badly on the way home from tony's last night and put simply, myself and Tony don't have the time to do the blue one as well as all the race car stuff we're doing.
I've been twice now to get a warant and it only has couple of things to do now.
-Rust hole behind battery
-wheel bearing up front needs adjustment
-Hand brake balance (I lubed and adjusted the rear left which made it too good so right rear needs same)
options of wheels....I have two sets of rims for this as you will all probably remember there is the 14 inch race wheels with race tyres on with really good tread and they're amazingly good.
And there is the alloy beemer type wheels with black spokes...will post photos two tyres would pass wof the others wouldn't
I'm not looking for a fortune for this and would be a steal if anyone is interested.
I'm thinking $600 for car alone
$700 for race wheels and tyres (performance wheel superlites off gemin coupe race car)
$300 for black spoked alloys and tyres
ring me if you're interested 0274395147
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Post by gordo on Nov 9, 2009 2:22:27 GMT 12
Still running the 1256 and CD carbie? you can swap it for one of my old ones.
However, usual carbie fault is a hole in the diaphram - about $10.
Usual cause of misfires is the points - and bush/backplate wear. Bushed used to be $3 a time but not sure about them now - if you do do them, use three - they fit and give a bit more support - give them a good soak in oil before fitting.
I'd call around and check it over but got some sort of rib injury that's just not going away!
Good news is I found out why the callibra was only putting out 107hp at the wheels and seemed to have an AFR of 15.5:1 - faulty throttle sensor!
With a new one it should be around 125 or more at the wheels - not bad for an intially rated at 150hp engine that's done nearly 200k kms!
REDTOPS RULE - OK!
BTW, would you be interested in bringing the beasty along to the next Eurosport dyno' day? Last had a good variety - including a Ferrari 360!
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Post by bulldog on Nov 9, 2009 7:12:01 GMT 12
Thanks Gordo, yeah it's done this before and I stripped the carby and cleaned it although I stupidly doused the diaphram in petrol kinda wrecking the diaphram, put it back together and all seemed ok until yesterday. Point is I orginally planned to put the 2300 in it so didn't spend much time fixing the 1300 but I've run out of time and money to complete that project unless i do it all myself on the go slow at my place and once the race car comes home I'll have not garage space. I'm thinking I'll be better off with an mid 90s v6 commodore or similar to tow the race car.
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Post by bulldog on Nov 9, 2009 7:40:35 GMT 12
actually gordo if you have an old standard carby i could try a complete replacement would be great. I thought I had one but must have thrown it in with gold chevette sale
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Post by bulldog on Nov 9, 2009 20:24:14 GMT 12
Definately found the problem...check spark plugs all fine, checked points still had appropriate gap all fine. Took top off carb....diaphram hammered. Split around top lip in three places. Have marine silicon sealed it and once dry will put back together to see if it will get me by until I decide what I'm doing with the car.
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Post by gordo on Nov 9, 2009 20:34:49 GMT 12
Got a spare diaphram, I think, cost a tenner so selling for same if interested - otherwise, try Repco, it's where I got mine from.
Look on the bright side - some years ago I picked up an engine and some other parts from a guy that'd stripped an immaculate Chevette hatch for parts - it was already mostly stripped when I got there.
Point is, he diagnosed a "dropped valve" because it started running rough and lost power - I mentioned it would probably be a holed diaphram as a dropped valve makes a horrifically loud racket (from experience) - sure enough, went to pick the stuff up next day and he admitted he checked the carb' and that was all that was wrong - such a waste of a really nice hatch!
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Post by bulldog on Nov 9, 2009 21:25:40 GMT 12
i'll pop down to repco tomorrow as I don't think the silicon fix has compeltely fixed it. It's running better but still like it's missing really badly. I have a cheap timing light from repco that is a red LED one where you attach it to lead 1 and plug 1 but stuffed if I could find the timing mark going round. Messed with distributor timing while it was going but question is do those cheapie timing lights work? Hey gordo are you on Instant messenger? live messenger etc? if so add me bulldognz@hotmail.com
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Post by gordo on Nov 9, 2009 21:49:56 GMT 12
Nay, mate, avoid those like the plague - or should I say 'swine flu'.
I especially try and avoid 'hotmail' - I get one spam about every two to three weeks and I like it that way - Hotmail harvests the 'mail addresses and sells them off - but that's M$ for you!
If you need the diaphram, you could pick up the timing light at the same time - it's a decent, bright one!
If I can get the crank pickup fitted, I'll be able to fire up the XE on the TBs for you - hasn't run for about four months so needs it!
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Post by 77vette on Nov 10, 2009 9:24:19 GMT 12
can cofirm that silicon gaskit dont always work best with carbs. Stuck some carbs onto an fzr that way(cos i had a tube on the floor and that was closer than the bike shop  ) and it ran same as you discribe lol. (oh and also picked one up for cheap that a bike shop diagnosed with "valve problem" and was also just cracked carb boots/manifolds/whatever they're called LOL) would be keen on this but nah. Will trade you for my moped and a victa lawnmower and a hundred bucks |
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Post by bulldog on Nov 10, 2009 12:30:36 GMT 12
Larf....it's not worth selling how it is anyway. Will fix outstanding stuff and hopefully get it running nicely again today.
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Post by mikuni on Nov 10, 2009 12:39:27 GMT 12
I mentioned it would probably be a holed diaphram as a dropped valve makes a horrifically loud racket (from experience) I can confirm this. Sounds like the most horrible pinking noise and the engine loses power. well... what little it had to begin with atleast. |
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Post by zep on Nov 10, 2009 17:52:30 GMT 12
Man, when I was looking for a car there were none. Now since I've never had money, there have been heaps of coupes, and chevettes and sheezy. sucks,.
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Post by bulldog on Nov 10, 2009 19:41:05 GMT 12
Went to Repco today, turns out there is a complete rebuild kit for $70 which I'm picking up tomorrow. Bought it purely out of curiosity as I really only need the diaphram but Tony and I didn't know they existed....here goes nothing.
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Post by gordo on Nov 10, 2009 20:50:11 GMT 12
Shoot, they've gone up - I think I paid $42 for the last one - but I do get a nice discount!
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Post by gemininja on Nov 11, 2009 0:58:21 GMT 12
Shoot, they've gone up - I think I paid $42 for the last one - but I do get a nice discount! its good to be in the trade and know people- the markup for mere mortals is insane =D |
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) and it ran same as you discribe lol. (oh and also picked one up for cheap that a bike shop diagnosed with "valve problem" and was also just cracked carb boots/manifolds/whatever they're called LOL) 