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Post by defcon on Apr 5, 2006 18:24:48 GMT 12
Ive just bought a 1inch master cyclinder producted to bolt up to a pf50 gemini 4 bolt booster.
Ive got to rip off the old cyclinder(still have fluid in the system) and replace it with the new one. I know what im doing but wondering if anyone has better way to do it rather, then just draing all the fluid, and bolting the new one up.
What I figure i'll do is, rip off the resovior first, then pump all the fluid out of the master, leaving the rest of the fluid still in the system.
Is there any way i can fill/ bleed the new master cyclinder before fitting to the car, would make a crap load easyer then having to bleed while fitted. Would mean I'd only have bleed at the wheels.
Any ideas?
Matt
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Post by defcon on Apr 5, 2006 18:31:39 GMT 12
Ps if anyone wants a very freshly reconditions 4 bolt master cyclinder, I'll sell mine for pretty cheap. they dont make seal kits for them any more, cost me 200 bucks to reco!
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Post by burntrubber on Apr 5, 2006 18:32:38 GMT 12
Done this before all you do is bolt it on fill it with fluid and undo all the bleed nipples and let gravity do the rest. Do the nipples up as the begin to drip. Some cars have a valve that keep the rears tight you may need to do something with that if you have one.
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Post by defcon on Apr 5, 2006 18:42:00 GMT 12
so pretty much I have to drain the system dry, I cant just leave the existing fluid in the lines/ calipers ? Thats what I did the last time, bleeding is such a pain!
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Post by burntrubber on Apr 5, 2006 19:00:54 GMT 12
Yeah theres no other way to get the air out. No matter if you prime the master cylinder or not when you wind the brake lines in your gunna get air in the system. You don't have to drain it as such just bleed all the air all way from the master cylinder it wont use that much fluid like 1/2 a liter at the max.
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Post by defcon on Apr 5, 2006 19:10:00 GMT 12
Sweet, will still have to bleed it from the master once its in though, thats crap part. Have to have some one in the car pushing the brake pedal down and holding it while I open/close the screw conections for the lines. Im sure there was a way you could bleed the individual cyclinder before fitting it.
Thanks for the help
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Post by defcon on Apr 5, 2006 19:14:46 GMT 12
Found it, new i read something somewhere..... For future referance:
"Also, if you have removed and replaced the master cylinder or any of its internal components, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder.
This can be acheived by filling the resevoir(s) full of brake fluid and pumping the plunger through its FULL travel, usually achieved with a long screwdriver, Use a Phillips head, to reduce the chance of damaging the piston or bore. A peice of wooden dowel is the ideal tool to use.
You'll will know when it is bled when there is fluid coming out of all the ports in a steady stream.
Sometimes the rear circuit will fill faster than the front. you can help the front fill by holding your finger or thumb over the outlet (where the line screws in) to keep some pressure in the rear circuit.
If you don't bleed the master cylinder properly, air can be trapped within the bore, or worse, within the proportioning valve, which will wreak havock with your front/rear brake bias, also causing a spongy pedal. " Off Ozgemini.com
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Post by burntrubber on Apr 5, 2006 19:21:59 GMT 12
True never knew any of that and I have ripped apart 3-4 master cylinders and never had a problem but it will do it from now on  |
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Post by mikuni on Apr 6, 2006 7:11:35 GMT 12
You still need to bleed all 4 at the wheels tho ay? This is just to get the air out of the bore...?
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Post by defcon on Apr 6, 2006 12:30:59 GMT 12
yeah, thats to make sure you dont have air traped in the master, there could still be air in the lines/caliper pistons ect. So you have to bleed at the wheels after, make sure that the bleeding order is correct too- its sould be in my gregs manual somewhere when the time comes.
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west
Full Member
Posts: 226
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Post by west on Apr 10, 2006 21:44:03 GMT 12
Did you get that master cylinder brand new?? If so where from and how much.cheers dude, have to do the same for mine!
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Post by zep on Apr 10, 2006 21:59:08 GMT 12
You get them from Hopper Stoppers in Oz. I think they are about $220 delievered to your door.
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Post by defcon on Apr 11, 2006 17:43:52 GMT 12
Yeah it was a hoppers stoppers m/c, was $215 AUD incl postage, Email Hopstop@hoppers.com.au when you want it. Works a dream, i was running the old gem master and this one makes the pedal feel so much firmer, i have faith in my brakes again!
Matt
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Post by defcon on Apr 12, 2006 11:54:58 GMT 12
Oh BTW it will only fit the early 4 bolt style of booster, the other option is using a xb falcon master cyclinder and having the push rod modified to suit.
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west
Full Member
Posts: 226
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Post by west on Apr 12, 2006 20:22:59 GMT 12
True cheers for that, yea figured theyd only fit the old booster. Gotta find me one of those first then I'll get a master cylinder. So your bakes are munt as now?? Thay the same calipers as mine ay??
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