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Post by lockie1994 on Sept 19, 2012 20:47:48 GMT 12
right may sound like a silly question but what ryco part number do yaz use in the lil 1256 motors  i got 1 from repco but it dosent have the little rubber seals on it other than that it would have fitted, any help would be good |
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dunc
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Post by dunc on Sept 19, 2012 22:23:49 GMT 12
Ive had this exact same thing recently. Did the filter in my first chevette earlier this year and it had rubber seals, on each end of the cartridge from memory, on both the old and new filter. Did my other chevette recently and the new filter had no seals at all, just a sort of swaged area on each end of the cartridge.
Both were Ryco. I did a fair bit of research at the time but couldnt find much. The guys at the autoparts shop told me it was alright (and they seem to know their stuff), and i did find pictures on the net of the vauxhall filter with no seals. Ive put it in anyway, not had trouble yet, but not done many miles or pushed it hard either. I did look at reusing the seals off the old filter but cant remeber where that got me. From meomory, the filter with seals was about the same installed length as the one without.
Keen to hear whhat others think. I was a bit nervous about using the filter without rubber seals. Hope i havent goofed up as I am only just running it in. Will be changing filters again soon.
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Post by cul8r on Sept 20, 2012 19:09:38 GMT 12
Lol I never did a change on any of the 1256's. Derbied one, parts one, and pulled the other out in favour of the twincam.
They're just a cartridge filter arent they?
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Post by lockie1994 on Sept 20, 2012 20:18:41 GMT 12
yea just a cartridge but i cant seem to get one with the rubber seals, might have to bogan something up eg glue my own rubber seals on  |
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Post by gordo on Sept 26, 2012 23:51:52 GMT 12
As Dunc said, some filter manufacturers just form the metal ends of the filter in a raised round form, to seal against the block and spring loaded plate rather than adding sealing rubbers which add to their costs and may become dislodged in transit. Fretting won't be a problem, as the spring pressure will stop the filter moving.
Either should be equally effective, although I would also prefer the rubber seal to prevent metal to metal contact, so if only the metal type is available, just use it.
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Post by lockie1994 on Sept 30, 2012 11:48:07 GMT 12
there thanks for that, got a reg and wof on the hatch this weekend but at what seems around 3500rpm it starts knocking quite a bit so will be re building the motor soon .Anyone know a good place to get my parts from??? |
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Post by gordo on Sept 30, 2012 17:59:09 GMT 12
Are you sure it isn't the thermally controlled fan hub? They can give a knocking noise that's quite noticable and annoying - if it is, you can sometimes see it moving back and forwards and/or move it by hand.
Also check there's nothing else in the engine bay that may be vibrating at certain rpm - been caught like that myself.
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Post by lockie1994 on Sept 30, 2012 18:20:02 GMT 12
thanks for that i will check, i just checked up on carjam the sadan that the motor came out of and its done 349,590kms so i wouldent be at all surprised it it is a bearing or similar
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dunc
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Post by dunc on Oct 1, 2012 22:16:23 GMT 12
Hey mate depending on how far you want to go I recently had my engine rebuilt by a guy at Greta Valley (north canterbury) and he did a good job. Engine Developments. His name is Rob. Cost me $1400 but he did absolutely everything. I took the engine to him in bits, and it came back complete. It had seized. Lot of money but he was way cheaper than anyone else for the extent of work done and he sourced hard to get bits like oversized pistons etc. I plan to keep my chevette going for many years to come so didnt take a punt on an unknown engine. Its good as new. Cheers. If you are coming through north canterbury drop me a reply as would be good to meet up and swap notes.
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dunc
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Post by dunc on Oct 1, 2012 22:17:41 GMT 12
I was going to rebuild myself at one stage and Cliff Bonds in Chch was the other place who could source parts. Good luck with the rebuild.
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Post by lockie1994 on Oct 2, 2012 18:17:00 GMT 12
i will be re building it myself dont like paying people to do stuff i can do myself haha, thanks for the info
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dunc
New Member
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Post by dunc on Oct 2, 2012 20:34:58 GMT 12
All good mate - nothing like DIY. Cliff Bonds could be a go then. Depends what youre up for but also consider if you need crank grind/polish, rebores, valve grind, deck the block and other machining etc it gets pretty specialist and rather than run round here there and everywhere can be easier to get it done at one place.
One thing that this bloke did that i would recommend you get regardless is hot tanking in acid - it clears out all the oilways and waterways and the engine comes up mint too. bit of insurance. I got a oil pump rebuild too at the same time.
All the best with the rebuild. They go alright with a freshen up - for a 1256. Would just about drag a hen off its nest. Cheers
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Post by lockie1994 on Oct 3, 2012 19:43:01 GMT 12
haha yes they do go alright i have been thrashing mine around a bit its not fast but takes off quite good and corners extremely well for an old car even tho its still completely standard with old worn shocks, i have done valve grinding etc before and have the gear at work to do it so that cuts another cost ah the joys of training to be a mechnanic |
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i got 1 from repco but it dosent have the little rubber seals on it other than that it would have fitted, any help would be good
