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Post by yammies on Jun 6, 2010 13:39:57 GMT 12
I'm kinda curious as to what swaps over without modification...
i.e. is the dash the same? a glovebox would be nice in the chevette....
plus anything else that would be nice to have in a chevette which is standard in a gem....
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Post by crazytim on Jun 6, 2010 18:07:18 GMT 12
Early gem TX-C-D-E have a seperate removeable glovebox, dash wouldnt be interchangable without some major modifying.
What else are you wondering aboot?
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Post by crazytim on Jun 6, 2010 18:08:02 GMT 12
Also remmeber if you add a glovebox you may lose tyhe use of your stupidly located bonnet release...
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Post by yammies on Jun 6, 2010 21:34:13 GMT 12
Also remmeber if you add a glovebox you may lose tyhe use of your stupidly located bonnet release... well now that the car is in a million bits it would be extremely easy to relocate it.... Though it is in the same place on my 944.. so just something to remember I guess... It's been a while since I have driven a shove on the road, so can't really remember any of the annoying things other than the pedal location, and the fact that the seat doesnt go back far enough... Both of which I intend to change on my car.... Does the gem have a proper accelerator pedal? |
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Post by crazytim on Jun 6, 2010 23:30:57 GMT 12
sIMILAR BUT CABLE COMES THRU FIREWALL INSTAED OF STRANGE LINKAGE SET UP in a chevette.
Sorry about capslocks mishap cant be fuct changing it lol
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Post by mikuni on Jun 7, 2010 0:16:45 GMT 12
They aren't too similar to be honest mate. I have owned only wagons really, which are probably going to be more similar than the others. I've owned a 1980 Isuzu Gemini, a 1979 and 1980 Vauxhall Chevettes, among others but these are the cars that I used to compare.
The floor pans are completely different. Seat mounts or brakes are not interchangeable between them. The firewall is also very different. You can actually see this from in the engine bays of the 2 cars, the Chevettes have their battery at the back while this isn't the case in the Gemini.
I actually have a Gemini pedal in my Chevette, thanks burntrubber. The front wheel well is the same shape so it went in ok, but certainly not a straight fit because it hit the top of the firewall, where it curves back in to the dash kind of.
I would be very surprised if a Gemini dash came anywhere near close to fitting, but it could be worth a look and it probably wouldn't be too hard to adapt it to fit. The shape will still be essentially the same and the width etc will be hang on. The glass is mostly the same between the cars.
Most suspension components etc can be swapped over however none are the same between Chevette and Gemini. ie they use different hubs, brakes, diffs etc.
Best bet is probably to just ask what changes over as you go, as most of us have had a play with many areas of this cars by now and know what fits and what can be made to fit.
Also, if you can't find it on a Gemini, theres a large chance you will find it in another GM car or another car altogether. Heres a list of some of the parts I have used in my car.
Body - Vauxhall Chevette Estate
Head - Holden/Opel Vectra B
Block - Holden/Opel Vectra A
Sump - Opel Manta B
Engine Mounts (engine) - Opel Manta B (modified)
Engine Mounts (crossmember) - Ford Cortina
Radiator - Holden Torana (modified)
Radiator Overflow - Nissan Bluebird
Fuel Pump - Holden Commodore
Coils - Misubishi Lancer
Leads - Mitsubishi Lancer (modified)
Throttle Pedal - Holden/Isuzu Gemini
Throttle Cable - Nissan Skyline
Throttle Bodies - Toyota Levin
Gearbox - Holden/Opel Commodore/Senator
Flywheel - Holden/Opel Vectra B (lightened)
Clutch Plate - Holden Camira
Pressure Plate - Daewoo Leganza
Thrust Bearing - Nissan Skyline (possibly)
Clutch Cable - Vauxhall Chevette
Speedo Cable - Opel Manta B (modified)
Differential - Vauxhall Chevette (original)
Rear Shocks - Holden HG Ute
Front Shocks - Suzuki SJ41 (modified attach.)
Front Brakes - Isuzu Piazza
Rear Brakes - Vauxhall Chevette
Front Bushes - Holden/Isuzu Gemini Nolathane
Front Swaybar - Holden/Isuzu Gemini Uprated
Front Springs - Holden Torana (modified)
Rear Springs - Misc (modified)
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Post by dannyboy on Jun 18, 2010 14:40:12 GMT 12
Also remmeber if you add a glovebox you may lose tyhe use of your stupidly located bonnet release... well now that the car is in a million bits it would be extremely easy to relocate it.... Though it is in the same place on my 944.. so just something to remember I guess... It's been a while since I have driven a shove on the road, so can't really remember any of the annoying things other than the pedal location, and the fact that the seat doesnt go back far enough... Both of which I intend to change on my car.... Does the gem have a proper accelerator pedal? How is the fact that the steering wheel doesnt face you straight lol .I moved the bottom of the collom over till it was straight and if feels way better on the track. Funny how you need all the little things right to get really in the zone. |
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Post by yammies on Jun 18, 2010 17:53:06 GMT 12
Haha I have that option at the moment too, along with raising the height of the pedal box area up and relocating the battery so i can fit a brake pedal with a decent ratio.
I'll probably (Heaven forbid) fit a japanese pedal assy as they are really easy get hold of and all seem to be better designed...
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Post by gordo on Jun 18, 2010 18:07:46 GMT 12
Haha I have that option at the moment too, along with raising the height of the pedal box area up and relocating the battery so i can fit a brake pedal with a decent ratio. I'll probably (Heaven forbid) fit a japanese pedal assy as they are really easy get hold of and all seem to be better designed... Pay a little extra and get a proper pedal box with remote adjustment - it'll be a big advantage as you sort out your brakes and balance! |
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Post by yammies on Jun 18, 2010 21:39:48 GMT 12
Haha I have that option at the moment too, along with raising the height of the pedal box area up and relocating the battery so i can fit a brake pedal with a decent ratio. I'll probably (Heaven forbid) fit a japanese pedal assy as they are really easy get hold of and all seem to be better designed... Pay a little extra and get a proper pedal box with remote adjustment - it'll be a big advantage as you sort out your brakes and balance! I already have one.. hence I need the extra room for the added pedal length. I may end up going for a slim brake booster yet, and sticking with a short length pedal. |
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Post by gordo on Jun 18, 2010 23:02:52 GMT 12
Pay a little extra and get a proper pedal box with remote adjustment - it'll be a big advantage as you sort out your brakes and balance! I already have one.. hence I need the extra room for the added pedal length. I may end up going for a slim brake booster yet, and sticking with a short length pedal. Forgot to specify a dual cylinder p/box. Unless you've one of the rare ones designed to work with a servo, you're going to have to use a couple of in-line boosters, one for each line. This isn't as much of a hassle as you may think, as they can be remotely mounted in a convenient location - some HS/HSR setups had them between the RF headlight and RF inner wheel arch. |
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Post by yammies on Jun 20, 2010 20:23:04 GMT 12
Apparently the pedal/master cylinder setup I have is for use without a booster. I think it's 7:1 ratio, so should do the trick. I have a few options now though, so it's a matter of what fits in, or what I can make fit in...  |
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Post by gordo on Jun 21, 2010 1:50:53 GMT 12
Try it and see. I had the booster develop a leak on one Chevette, so I disconnected it - after I got used to it, it was fine - still could lock the fronts, four up, with hard pads without too much bother!
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Post by yammies on Jun 21, 2010 6:37:44 GMT 12
well as long as I have enough leg strength to match the twin piston calipers, I should be ok.
as you say, I guess I'll just try it and see! Either way I have to adjust the firewall/inner guard area.
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Post by bulldog on Jun 21, 2010 10:51:42 GMT 12
both dan and I run willwood boxes with dual valve non boosted setups and its fine although you do have to stand on them pretty hard.
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