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Post by zep on Sept 26, 2007 19:02:37 GMT 12
42 too much
it depends on how wide thye are...
I had 17x7.5 +36 and they scrubbed on the shocks, but 7" probably wont.
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Post by mikuni on Sept 27, 2007 15:32:10 GMT 12
You should be ok with et42. I think I was running that. You will probably just need an adjustable panhard rod in the back to get the diff perfectly centre. I am a dodgy Mrs Funt'maRunt though and on my gemini I just put a spacer on one side and nothing on the other side hahaha. Was only a 2-3mm spacer though. I have some if you're keen.
The wheels will rub on the shocks when the car is jacked right up and some wof places pick up on this and you won't be able to get a cert if you wanted to do that. In reality it doesn't effect anything though.
edit: oh yeah, as zep said 42mm should be ok as long as they are only 7's
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Post by crazytim on Sept 27, 2007 18:19:36 GMT 12
need panhard rod anyway...isnt 1 in chevini and itsa problem, thread on left side where rod goes on is jus abt touching the shock bkoz diff is from ? not sure?!?!? all tha dude said was it was an lsd and i didnt knw 2 ask what from bkoz i was a doody head
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Post by mikuni on Sept 27, 2007 20:52:16 GMT 12
hahaha you still odn't have a panhard rod at all? nuts thats really dodgy man.
You should upright those shocks like I have done and put one in using the standard mounting points.
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Post by crazytim on Sept 27, 2007 21:53:14 GMT 12
thats on the chevini not the boganvette...will def sort it b4 it goes!!! i dodgy but not that dodgy!!!! ;D not sure bout uprighting shocks...car designd a certain way and 4 me wit no knowledge 2 go changn it... was it quite successful in ur wags? didn realise ud dun it!
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Post by mikuni on Sept 28, 2007 8:09:32 GMT 12
Yeap very successful. Its 100% better, I recommend it. But, I did it wrong. I wasn't sure how they were meant to be so we just welded them in from the inside. When I went to put the shocks in they would hit on the inner guard so I realised this had to be cut out. What I should have done it actually cut the inner guard out first and then welded them in from the outside. I had to grind the inner guard out afterwards and it looks real rough now
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Post by zep on Sept 28, 2007 8:20:44 GMT 12
I still rekcon you should just cut all the guard nuts out and mount it to some roll cage steel fabricated bracket nuts.... prolly expensive tho.
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Post by zep on Sept 28, 2007 8:27:24 GMT 12
I still rekcon you should just cut all the guard nuts out and mount it to some roll cage steel fabricated bracket nuts.... prolly expensive tho.
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Post by ollie98 on Sept 28, 2007 8:31:30 GMT 12
what's the advantage from uprighting the shocks?
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Post by mikuni on Sept 28, 2007 10:13:22 GMT 12
I still rekcon you should just cut all the guard nuts out and mount it to some roll cage steel fabricated bracket nuts.... prolly expensive tho. That would be awesome though. Why didn't you do that on your cage? Advantage is that the shocks actually work when they are upright. When they are on an angle they are ok-ish when the car is a metre off the ground because they are kind of semi-upright but as soon as you lower it they go on such an angle that they just wobble around rather than extending and contracting.
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Post by zep on Sept 28, 2007 11:31:35 GMT 12
I still rekcon you should just cut all the guard nuts out and mount it to some roll cage steel fabricated bracket nuts.... prolly expensive tho. That would be awesome though. Why didn't you do that on your cage? . I already have upright shocks! I didn't really think of it at the time, and for me, it would involve moving the gas tank as it sits up behind the seats.
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Post by crazytim on Sept 30, 2007 22:53:13 GMT 12
did u take pics as u went brad? maybe do a tech shop, pointing out your mistakes though lol!!!
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Post by crazytim on May 12, 2008 22:03:38 GMT 12
what happens if you put fwd offset rims on a t-car? 1 guy off tard me has sum on a tf wags...says they just sit 20mm in no worrys but wanted a 2nd or 3rd opinion... also if anyone knows of any hotrims @ reasonable rates looking for somthing cool in 17inch for my wagon... thanx
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Post by gordo on May 12, 2008 23:05:05 GMT 12
what happens if you put fwd offset rims on a t-car? 1 guy off tard me has sum on a tf wags...says they just sit 20mm in no worrys but wanted a 2nd or 3rd opinion... also if anyone knows of any hotrims @ reasonable rates looking for somthing cool in 17inch for my wagon... thanx Hey Tim, on the front I would expect any interference to be on full droop against the damper (shock). IIRC, you're using short front dampers to the travel may not be enough to cause problems - thing would be to have a trial fit with it jacked off the ground and see exactly what you have to play with. If it's close you may get by with spacers, the Chevette has quite a lot of thread on the ront studs. On the rear, it would probably be when the rear is full articulated - you would check this by either running one front or rear wheel up a ramp and seeing if the wheel is rubbing on the inside of the arch. Not much you can do about it except maybe a thin spacer as there is a lot less thread to engage the nut. However, as this would be a rare thing and the WoF chaps don't check it ... Must pull finger and sort out dropping off that choke (?) clip sometime if you still need it - been a real slackarse lately
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Post by crazytim on May 13, 2008 23:18:54 GMT 12
thanx gordo, used a small hoseclamp seems to be holding up. guy @ wheel shop today reckons stud adaptors are the go either 4x100 to 4x100 if i want same stud pattern or to 4x114 or whatever. unfortunatly this is an extra cost of $75 per wheel and also wont accomodate all rims because of nuts sticking out, he reckoned 50% of rims have recesses on the back of the rim between the stud holes. Would defnitly locktite the buggers on, i have adaptors that worked loose couldnt work out where vibration was coming from... bad news!!
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