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Post by zep on Dec 7, 2006 13:00:55 GMT 12
I'm thinking of selling my front brake kit. It's a Ben Wight option 2 kit with 258mm diameter 22mm thick ventilated discs and is a complete bolt on for a Gemini - and probably a Chevette too. The main reason for this is that I'm looking at upgrading to his bigger kit to compensate for my larger rear discs. I don't want the bias to be ultra-Barry Whiteed. Obviously I'm not going to buy the new kit unless I can sell this one I have currently. I would say it's done less than 500Km on the car since I put it on.  More info on it here: www.giant.net.au/users/wight/Option%202%20-%20Performance%20Disks.htmBen sells these for $595AUD I'm looking at $400NZDono or $350 to someone on this forum. |
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Post by mikuni on Dec 7, 2006 15:58:58 GMT 12
How much bigger are the rears than the front? Its actually extremely common for the rears to be larger than the front. If you look up disk rotors in the parts catalogues you will see quite a few cars where this occurs. Piazzas do I think, and the mazda 6's etc. Often this is to elliminate rear brake lockup because the larger diameter helps to reduce the effects of this. The rears, even on new cars like 6's are not usually vented and have only single piston calipers where the front will often has twin. As far as bias goes, you will need a brake bias control valve anyway, as with changing brakes as much as you have the standard set up won't be able to compensate for this. If it does look stupid with the rears heaps bigger than the front and that is why you want to change it then go ahead. As far as the kit working properly with larger rears, I would say it will be perfect and I wouldn't bother spending the extra money.
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Post by zep on Dec 7, 2006 17:16:22 GMT 12
Cheers for that info, might just leave it now.
Matt seemed to think that the master cyclinder we have has an internal brake bias which means it has to come off every time it needs adjusting, which could be a pregnant dog. And apparantly this means that I can not just add in a bias valve outside this. :S Brakes are not my strong point.
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Post by mikuni on Dec 7, 2006 18:23:02 GMT 12
Nah, I'm sure you will be able to add one. It will just reduce/regulate the flow of the fluid going to the rear. I know its illegal to have one that you can turn off and on from inside the vehicle (a 'line locker') but I'm pretty certain these can be put into any vehicle, regardless of the brake system in use.
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Post by defcon on Dec 7, 2006 18:27:43 GMT 12
Im pretty sure that in the TX master cyclinders( thats what our new master cyclinders are designated to) have the valve inside the master, some sort of valve/spring assembly which regultes the flow. Adding an external wouldnt help i think as, if the flows already regulated to some limit, you could only adjust down with an external, as being fully open would give the standard flow from the master. If you removed the bias valve in the master, and just ran an external you could, but why wouldnt you just adjust the standard one? Well thats my take on it anyway.  |
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Post by mikuni on Dec 7, 2006 18:37:12 GMT 12
Yeap. You make a good point. But seriously, can you imagine getting it right? You adjust it slightly, put it all back together, bleed it, test it, not right. Pull the master off and do it again, right?
So, what I would look in to, is just turning the proportioning valve inside the master to its maximum flow, so that all 4 corners are getting unlimited pressure. Then put in an external proportioning valve on only the rear brake line that will reduce the flow/pressure to the rear only. This is assuming that the rear will be out braking the front when all is set as standard.
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Post by defcon on Dec 7, 2006 18:48:42 GMT 12
Mmm yeah, thats probably the way to go, it would be a real mission having to constantly reassemble the master. The rotors on the back are larger, but the pistion and calipers are much smaller then the front. Shouldnt be out breaking the front, so maybe just reducing the flow to rear a little? Anyway that'll be for what ever lucky sucker gets to set the brakes  |
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Post by zep on Dec 7, 2006 19:49:09 GMT 12
Haha, yeah and that aint gonna be me! Gonna get the tuners to do that nuts, they said they could  |
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Post by mikuni on Dec 7, 2006 21:04:21 GMT 12
Yeap. They like charging heaps for all that little nigly stuff though. But I'd do the same anyway. Its all those little things that keep cars from being finished and on the road so you might aswell just get it done right the first time. If I had of done that I would have a nice twincam chevette wagon right now (about 3 years ago  ) |
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Post by zep on Dec 7, 2006 21:16:12 GMT 12
Haha don't worry, the 'tuning' is all part of my 21st present |
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Post by mikuni on Dec 7, 2006 21:25:31 GMT 12
Damn, thats a good deal then! And I hadn't even looked at the price. $350 is insanely cheap if you do end up selling it, thats a damn good buy for someone on here. It cost me around that to buy my piazza brakes and rebuild them and they are only the size of normal gemini front disks. Its good though, means I can run 13's.
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west
Full Member
Posts: 226
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Post by west on Dec 11, 2006 14:45:33 GMT 12
What is your rear brake setup off?? ANd what master cylinder you running?? TX??
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Post by zep on Dec 12, 2006 13:39:37 GMT 12
Rear brakes from an EB falcon with some adaptor plates made by BurntRubber. The master cyclinder is a Hopper Stoppers one.
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west
Full Member
Posts: 226
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Post by west on Dec 13, 2006 7:16:52 GMT 12
whats your master off?? Not a gem ay?? 1" bore??
Cant you get a 1" bore master that doesnt use a proportioning valve? Hilux? and put a bias valve on it, the wilwood one I had in my corona did up to 50% less pressure....??
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Post by zep on Dec 13, 2006 7:58:40 GMT 12
I'm not sure it's off anything. It is brand new and bolts right up to the Gem tho. Might need to check out the Hopper Stoppers website and have a read up on them.
Don't really want to buy a new master cyclinder now aye, this one wasn't cheap!
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