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Post by friendlyfire on Feb 14, 2009 16:43:47 GMT 12
ok so the toyota 5speed in my chevette at the moment is playing up a bit... when i not moving and put clutch in and put it into reverse it makes a loud clanking sound and jerks the car a lil bit, i thought it might be clutch not disengaging enough but it works fine with 1st,2,3,4,5 and it also dosnt make a noise at all when i first start the car up and reverse out of the garage its only once its warmed up.. im hoping its nothing major because iv already spent 2 and half grand recondictioning the gearbox with new syncros,ect
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Post by gemininja on Feb 14, 2009 17:25:11 GMT 12
shudnt move the car at all if its been stopd for a while, unless the clutch is gripping. other than that it might just be the teeth not engaging? if you got it rebuilt you kn take it back and slap them =)
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Post by gordo on Feb 14, 2009 19:41:33 GMT 12
Could be clutch drag, could be a tight spigot bearing in the back of the flywheel - you DID lubricate it, didn't you?
Not that unusual to have some noise shifting into reverse when warm and not when cold - when cold there is more internal drag from the oil and the input shaft is less likely to be rotated by the afore mentioned drag. The forward gears have syncromesh which is designed as a form of 'clutch' to slow down the difference in the selector teeth speeds, whereas reverse if normally a gear which is slide into engagement with other gears and has no mechanism to match speeds, this means it is common to have a bit of noise and/or resistance as it engages.
Bit hard to tell from your description if it is in the normal range or if there is a problem.
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Post by friendlyfire on Feb 14, 2009 19:45:42 GMT 12
ok i investigated some more, went out to garage started her up reversed out of garage with no noise going into reverse.. went for a spin and also found that when i accelerate then take foot off pedal u can hear something loose and rattling around or something hitting another like a slight rattling/grinding sound came home parked up in garage and put her into reverse a couple of times and the clanking is back, it dosnt actually move the car it just shakes it a little
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Post by friendlyfire on Feb 14, 2009 19:59:21 GMT 12
ill try record it tomorrow for you to hear what its like, dosnt sound healthy and for the lubrication i didn't remove the engine or gearbox myself, just took the car to the garage and let them do it all, so i hope they lubricate'd it...
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Post by mcqunt on Feb 15, 2009 9:28:20 GMT 12
take it all back to them if you spent the coin and it should not be causing you probs after
a rebuild,
fair trading act stz,
it sounds like above that your clutch isn't adjusted well or the like and the gb layshaft is still trying to turn as you go to engage reverse could be as simple as a leaking clutch master or slave, if its hydraulic check your pushrods for the master and slave are all adjusted properly
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Post by mikuni on Feb 15, 2009 10:55:01 GMT 12
ok so the toyota 5speed in my chevette at the moment is playing up a bit... when i not moving and put clutch in and put it into reverse it makes a loud clanking sound and jerks the car a lil bit, i thought it might be clutch not disengaging enough but it works fine with 1st,2,3,4,5 and it also dosnt make a noise at all when i first start the car up and reverse out of the garage its only once its warmed up.. im hoping its nothing major because iv already spent 2 and half grand recondictioning the gearbox with new syncros,ect $2500 grand for a rebuild? Holy crap. I would have just bought another couple for $500. |
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Post by friendlyfire on Feb 15, 2009 17:59:48 GMT 12
yeah it's quite alot but they took engine,gearbox out strip down the gearbox, see whats wrong then recondition the new one and reassemble, i did give them a second gearbox which i thought they would just change over but turned out the second one wasnt perfect but better then the other one so they reconditioned the new one, and gearbox work is specialist work i gess so labor costed more, could of saved a few hundy taking box out myself but didnt have the room or time at the time. The gearbox is bloody beautiful apart from this little problem
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Post by bulldog on Feb 16, 2009 12:57:33 GMT 12
For $2500 you should have got close ratio with stronger synchros!! sheesh. I propose we create a forum thread somewhere where people can put quotes from automotive places to have us more in the know peeps say yay or nay to the price.....please don't take this as a dig at you freindly fire I simply what to protect our bretheren as if you're not well equipped you're often the target of wanker mechanics.
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Post by mikuni on Feb 16, 2009 13:07:36 GMT 12
true true, we could certainly do that. A simple thread just throwing a quote out there would also work alright, just due to the huge range of things that you can get quotes for. most would probably be irrelivant.
One thing though, if you are happy with the price you paid, you feel as though you have recieved a good service, and the product is up to standard then it sounds like a fair price, despite what you have paid.
My mates are always on about "oh fu*k, you got ripped off for that", "you could have got *insert name here* to do that for you" or "what a lazy c*nt you should have just done that yourself" but at the end of the day, if you are too lazy, you don't have the skills or tools, or you just simply don't want to continuously owe people favours, then paying for things just doesn't really matter, providing you are happy with what you pay for.
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Post by bulldog on Feb 16, 2009 13:53:26 GMT 12
So true Brad....perhaps a better thread would be a tech section like on oldschool? It could also be an area where we could share good workshops to take your stuff too. Just trying to share the love without making people feel like we're attacking or taking the piss out of them.
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Post by friendlyfire on Feb 16, 2009 17:09:47 GMT 12
found the old invoice says "Chevette Gearbox rebuild & Change Remove G/Box & bell housing, check clutch. strip g/box x2 modify input shaft, lap synchro hubs, modify reverse idler and reassemble & refit to the car with new set of gearbox bearing and oil" even gave us a discount because my dad had done alot of work with him on his drag car. i gess ill just drive the car untill something goes bang or wait untill im going to put my new engine in and take g/box out then and take it to them. and by the way my names Sean =)
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Post by bulldog on Feb 16, 2009 19:20:40 GMT 12
Sounds like an ok deal Sean, there's plenty of work in pulling it all out and the work they've done. Probably 3-5 days work for a single guy. Hey are you building up the 2300? I'm looking into forged pistons if you're interested? Will be looking at getting a head ported and proper big valves too.
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Post by friendlyfire on Feb 16, 2009 19:34:31 GMT 12
hey, yeah im building up a 2.3, just waiting for a few things before i can start, could be interested in forged pistons and im keeping my head as it is, its already been overhauled but not the biggest valves u could fit in but there 45mm in 38mm out and will be touching up a few little things in the porting, just wondering what type of bottom end are you going to be using, just a standard? or steel? and will u be getting it cross drilled?
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Post by bulldog on Feb 17, 2009 13:28:18 GMT 12
No we don't cross drill them as we don't beleive in it...it's a long story. What we do instead is machine out another groove on the other side of the end caps to allow oil to flow under as well as over it. You need to up your oil pressure to do this although the 2.3 always required better oiling anyway. You can achieve this by re-machining your original oil pump by eliminating any 'gaps' this can have a huge effect on PSI.
Bottom end with be standard crank although balanced. Forged cranks are th go too budget allowing of course.
most of the power in these things is in the head and cam (as with most NA) you'll want 48 dellortos or webers. A good ported and flowed head with lary cam (not too lary though) as you'll have to mess with valve lengths and clearances etc. Depends how much power you want.
From memory the blydenstein heads ran 47 and 41 valves. There are 3 different head types over the years too with slightly different combustion chambers and width of metal. I can let you know the identifying features.
There were different blocks available too the later ones with extra webbing for strength.
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