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Post by mikuni on Nov 3, 2011 8:00:38 GMT 12
how much would you guys think 4 widened rostyles 13x7 with brand new 175/60s freshly powder coated black, with all centre caps is worth? To be perfectly honest, heaps less than what you poured into them. I think brand new tyres halve in value as soon as they are fitting to wheels, so that turns around $600 into around $300, $400 if you find someone very keen on that particular size. Then the wheels, they are always going to be small steel wheels, so you need to specifically keen on them, perhaps $400-500 if you really push it and even then, someone may decide its cheaper to make their own set. So I'd say $800-900 max and again, assuming you find someone who is actually looking for them. If you're keen to sell I'd say stick them on the forums and trademe for $1000 no reserve and see how you get on.
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Post by opelmantagsi on Nov 3, 2011 9:22:33 GMT 12
I think he is just sounding it out, probably better to run with them as a set and see what they are like, once the tires are worn out decide then, no dramas having a number of sets so they can be swapped around depending on the mood.
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Post by ryansmith on Nov 3, 2011 16:38:23 GMT 12
how much would you guys think 4 widened rostyles 13x7 with brand new 175/60s freshly powder coated black, with all centre caps is worth? wtf... changed mind already? no i am just curiouse to how much they are worth, not selling them. wouldnt mind trying your wagons steelies on the hatch when its done!
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Post by crazytim on Nov 3, 2011 20:37:51 GMT 12
your hatch will have to be extremely low to suit those... lol
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Post by ryansmith on Nov 3, 2011 20:45:58 GMT 12
yeah that's what i was thinking, and the hatch only goes down to the tyre on the rear and just above at the front, should bed in a little more though. still want a little bit of handling left haha
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Post by mikuni on Nov 3, 2011 21:05:03 GMT 12
still want a little bit of handling left haha t-cars seem to still handle very well when low, it's just the ground clearance that's the issue, particularly to the crossmember.
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Post by ryansmith on Nov 4, 2011 6:41:01 GMT 12
i remember that from my green sedan, i remember it handled well on trips down to whangamata and never had any problems with it except in the rain when turning at intersections, front was so low that the rear would often swing and even sometimes over stearing would cause the car to go forward even with the wheels turned fully. great fun though
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Post by opelmantagsi on Nov 4, 2011 6:50:24 GMT 12
Brad did the full suspension rebuild on that car so Tim has something that I would expect to drive well and the pics show decent drive lines, in the pic you can see inner rear wheel lifting when its being pushed real hard. That cars got vertical shocks, poly bushes, not sure what the make of the shocks, springs and tires are on it or were on it at the time, but looking at the pics it looks like its all set up nicely, although I would be happier if that front inner wheel was also on the bitumen (or is that just an optical error on my part?) over steer - when the tail kicks out under steer - when the car whats to keep going in a straight line so Ryan probably had both extremes of the most undesirable handling problems happening there in the green chevette. I reckon fitting a set of beefier anti roll bars out of a Manta will help both of those problems that seemed to occur in the green chevette along with some modification to the rods that connect the front ARB to the hubs. Tires, shocks, springs and bushes also need to be up to spec. Fitting cheap or second hand stuff also not good when thinking suspension in my opinion. Lowered on "cut springs" is as dumb as it gets.
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Post by crazytim on Nov 4, 2011 9:22:42 GMT 12
It drives excellent and yes Brad did a lot of mods/tweaks/adjust,ents/changes through out his ownership. Biggest problem when on wide steels is sump clearance... collected a high spot on the road last time I went for a drive, for a minute or so I thought I had shattered the alloy sump as the lump of blacktop showered the under carriage. It was two pot holes meeting and the centre had risen up slitely... lined it up to drive over it not realising I was going to bottom out, pretty unique problem if I had been driving with Manta rims on wouldn't have been an issue. Wide steels lower the car an extra inch. Anyway your sedan suspension from memory was a bit hodge podge, my point is Brad spent a lot of time and money getting the wagon the way it is. (and I love it! just wish money was available for the next step... need another 50k customer first)
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Post by opelmantagsi on Nov 4, 2011 10:32:14 GMT 12
if your going so low its worth thinking about a sump guard aye.
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Post by crazytim on Nov 4, 2011 10:56:20 GMT 12
if your going so low its worth thinking about a sump guard aye. dont have clearnace for one ;D ;D (jokes def want one now)
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Post by mikuni on Nov 4, 2011 11:32:11 GMT 12
Brad did the full suspension rebuild on that car so Tim has something that I would expect to drive well and the pics show decent drive lines, in the pic you can see inner rear wheel lifting when its being pushed real hard. That cars got vertical shocks, poly bushes, not sure what the make of the shocks, springs and tires are on it or were on it at the time, but looking at the pics it looks like its all set up nicely, although I would be happier if that front inner wheel was also on the bitumen (or is that just an optical error on my part?) over steer - when the tail kicks out under steer - when the car whats to keep going in a straight line so Ryan probably had both extremes of the most undesirable handling problems happening there in the green chevette. I reckon fitting a set of beefier anti roll bars out of a Manta will help both of those problems that seemed to occur in the green chevette along with some modification to the rods that connect the front ARB to the hubs. Tires, shocks, springs and bushes also need to be up to spec. Fitting cheap or second hand stuff also not good when thinking suspension in my opinion. Lowered on "cut springs" is as dumb as it gets. I can't really agree here sorry Derek. While I did spend a lot of time (and not that much money all in all) getting everything right, it is still essentially on "cut springs". The fronts are cut Torana springs and the rear, from memory cut Gemini springs? It's just the supporting mods that make cut springs work. They must remain captive, hence the shortened and uprated shocks (only Monroe GT Gas about $130 a pair) along with whiteline front sway bar and a rear sway bar from an RTS model Chevette. The rear wheel shouldn't be lifting in that pic, but it might be? The front is, but thats fine most good handling RWD cars will lift a front wheel under hard cornering. You see it on the V8 Supercars and even in F1 at times. It just should never lift a rear, which it did sometimes do because of the very short rear shocks, so this is an area that could be seen to.
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Post by opelmantagsi on Nov 4, 2011 16:02:31 GMT 12
its a worry, cutting springs that is. well here is my two cents worth springs are engineered items in my opinion, designed to compress over the length of the spring etc with the mass its expected to handle, the spring itself being heat treated / tempered / shot peen blasted to create the memory at molecular level within the steel itself, looking at the way a spring is coiled and the way the tails taper into the spring at each end, its all like that for a reason and the tails are not there to be cut off, its that simple. Having been through this with the spring guys in Auckland and Chch I realized there is a series of calculations that need to be done for front wishbone springs in chevette and manta for example, these calcs are taken based on the weight of the car, weight distribution, the dimension from the centre of the inner lower wish bone mounts to the centre of the spring mount and from the centre of the spring mount to the centre of the lower ball joint. From there they were are able to calculate the spring rate and size of the coil. these can either be made new or if the stock springs are good then they can be reset using a similar process to that used when making new ones. However sagging springs cannot be reset back to the original ride height (opened back up again) Getting springs reset is the better option if you cant buy off the shelf engineered items specifically for the car. On the Manta if you lower the ride height by more than 40mm the bump stop legs need to be shortend, not sure about the Chevette. Then you have progressive springs and the likes and its a whole new level of engineering. putting springs out of other cars isnt that smart either as those springs are design specifically for the car they come out of, unless its proven that the items being used are comparable to engineered after market items that can be used in the car they are going into. but everyone to their own on this subject.
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Post by crazytim on Nov 5, 2011 9:06:05 GMT 12
(seems to work pretty good)
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Post by crazytim on Nov 5, 2011 9:07:05 GMT 12
gahhhh another thread hijack sorry ryan... no guns this time though lol
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